This national park lies in the lowlands, on the fringe of the Ganges plain. From a canoe I see marsh crocodiles and the long-billed gavials, as well as various birds. The jungle walk was less impressive, but at least we saw deer, a king cobra and (through binoculars) a sloth bear trolling in a clearing far away. Once a rhino rustles in the bush, but takes off instead of showing itself. From the back of an elephant I have more luck, I see two rhino kids standing almost motionless in a mud pool. I am told that the animals have been decimated by poachers in recent years.