Year: 2005

Chitwan

This national park lies in the lowlands, on the fringe of the Ganges plain. From a canoe I see marsh crocodiles and the long-billed gavials, as well as various birds. The jungle walk was less impressive, but at least we saw deer, a king cobra and (through binoculars) a sloth bear trolling in a clearing … Continue reading “Chitwan”

Xian

For around 2000 years, Xian was the capital of China regardless of the ruling dynasties. Accordingly, the city and its surroundings are full of ancient temples, gates and tombs. One of the most interesting buildings is the Great Mosque, it looks like a Chinese temple, the minaret like a pagoda. But the main reason to … Continue reading “Xian”

Beijing

The city is criss-crossed by wide avenues lined with skyscrapers, but in between there are still remnants of the hutons, the old neighbourhoods of low, grey brick houses, where old people drink tea in the shade or play board games in the narrow alleys; coal sellers cycle their wares to customers… The centre of the … Continue reading “Beijing”

Guilin cone karst

Around Yangzhou, once again, cone karst at its finest – admittedly quite similar to the corresponding landscapes in northern Vietnam or southern Thailand. The best thing is to cruise through the landscape on a bicycle (if only it weren’t so brutally hot), because between the rocky limestone mountains everything is flat. I was less prepared … Continue reading “Guilin cone karst”

Kawah Ijen

This volcano is situated in the very east of Java. The crater is filled by a greenish sulphuric acid lake. A huge sulphur body has formed near the shore, brown hot sulphuric steam rises hissing. When the wind carries the cloud towards you, breathing is almost impossible, the acid bites your eyes and nose. Some … Continue reading “Kawah Ijen”

Visa Run

Why not go for a tandoori chicken from Java to Kuala Lumpur? The real reason, of course, is that my Indonesia visa has expired. So I spend one night in a minibus from Yogya to Jakarta (the train was unfortunately fully booked), fly to KL and back the next day. One night on the train … Continue reading “Visa Run”

From Thailand to Malaysia

I have just arrived in Kota Baru, in the north-east corner of Peninsular Malaysia. Tomorrow I’m taking a boat to the Perhentian Islands. Read on 13 months as a backpacker through Asia Ko Pha Ngan Ko Tao Krabi

Krabi

The sky is cloudy and almost every day there are one or two heavy monsoon showers – it’s obviously time for me to go to Malaysia, because the rainy season is already over there. But when it clears, the limestone cliffs shine beautifully in the sun. A bar on the beach has new furniture made … Continue reading “Krabi”

Sukhothai

The charming 15th century ruins of this town (and of Si Satchanalai, another one a little further north) are set in a large park that blends into the green of the surrounding hills. As you would expect, it’s all about Buddhist temples and monasteries, stupas of all shapes, sitting, standing, walking Buddhas…. The kingdom of … Continue reading “Sukhothai”

Chiang Mai

The much-vaunted flair of Chiang Mai is somewhat relative compared to Luang Prabang, but there are some pretty corners and a few nice temples. An image for the gods is the “Fuck off wankers” shirt by the punk band Exploited, worn by the boy sweeping the floor in front of the golden pagoda. To praise … Continue reading “Chiang Mai”

Plain of Jars

We went to the Plain of Jars, where hundreds of cubic metre-sized monolithic stone jars (made of sandstone) are lying around. Around 2000 years ago, they were probably used for burial. Read on 13 months as a backpacker through Asia Vang Vien Luang Prabang Muang Ngoi Neua

Angkor Wat

Angkor: hundreds of temples from the 9th to 16th centuries are scattered across the plain here, Angkor Wat is only the best known and largest. Depending on the whim of the respective ruler, they are dedicated either to Buddha or Hindu gods, but in any case to the god-king at the same time. In most … Continue reading “Angkor Wat”

Bangkok

So much for plans: as the Vietnamese consulate is on holiday for a week, I’m stuck for the time being, or rather I can’t leave for Cambodia until half a week later. So I’m going to take a trip through central Thailand first, because what am I going to do in Bangkok for so long? … Continue reading “Bangkok”

Kama Sutra in Stone: The Temples of Khajuraho

This small village, completely removed from any city, is home to some of India’s most exciting temples – known mainly for the many erotic depictions dating back almost 1000 years. Better than the Kama Sutra. All the possible and impossible positions stand in stark contrast to modern Indian society, where (except perhaps in Bangalore, Mumbai, … Continue reading “Kama Sutra in Stone: The Temples of Khajuraho”

Delhi

A stark city, packed with people, an unbelievable chaos. The best thing is to sit on a cycle rickshaw and watch people go by. It’s hard to move forward, sacks of chili or whatever are being unloaded from other cycle rickshaws or bullock carts everywhere, men with all kinds of beards and headdresses, women in … Continue reading “Delhi”

Agra

In the fog – quite frustrating after weeks of cloudless skies. The Taj Mahal is really not without reason the most famous building in India, built by a Mughal king for his 2nd wife. The best of the 20000 workers had their fingers or hands amputated afterwards so that something so magnificent could not be … Continue reading “Agra”